Eco Warriors
With gas prices increasing almost daily, the clever commuter looks for an alternative. The government may change the tax regime to favour tiny sub 1000cc auto's produced in Thailand but until then viable alternatives are those step-thru's produced by the Thai subsidiaries of the Japanese Big Four motorcycle manufacturers.
Honda initiated the breed as long ago as the early sixties, the four stroke OHC single shoved into a pressed steel frame and aided in its practicality by leg-shields, enclosed drive chain and large mudguards. For many in Asia, their first taste of powered transport and just fast enough in larger 100cc plus capacities to actually define low end motorcycle fun.
Generally, Thais hate walking, are reluctant cyclists and would much prefer the certitude of automotive transport but given the horrendous purchase and now running costs of four wheel vehicles, the step-thru remains a compulsive alternative. Especially in somewhere like Bangkok, where ever increasing numbers of auto's have reduced many main thoroughfares to gridlock; quicker to walk unless on a motorcycle.
In Europe, the scooter remains supreme in the commuter market and some of its technology has been adapted by local manufacturers – automatic gearboxes and svelte styling in devices like the Yamaha Nouvo. But beware, automatic gearboxes generally require frequent servicing and the smaller wheels of the scooter can be treacherous on wet, slippery roads; only held in check by grippy, fat tyres which in turn destroy the quest for low running costs in their short-lived nature!
Older Honda step-thru's burdened with strange front forks and dubious drum brakes but modern incantations of the breed, such as the budget Wave series, actually surprise in the quality of their ride and braking, especially when compared with the notoriously ill-engineered scooters which tend to have their engines and transmission melded with the back wheel. Anyone who ever tried to drive a Volkswagen Beetle rapidly on wet roads will get the picture. Thai produced Hondas are now exported to the West, little doubt about their quality.
Although laughable by the standards of modern superbikes, the step-thru's are actually clever manifestations of the art of Japanese production engineering, pared down to perfection yet still incredibly tough and long-lived. Economical, too, to the extent that no real thought needed over their running costs.
Honda still dominate, long producers of four stroke engines rather than the polluting two stroke rivals, these days the other manufacturers also produce variants on the four stroke theme. The single cylinder motors, in earlier models, were mere 50-90cc's, which generally made them sitting targets for bored motorists – lacking both a reasonable top speed and snappy acceleration.
Larger engines, from 100-150cc, resulted directly from the past dominance of the two-stroke mills, able to see off the majority of cars in heavy traffic and motor along at a reasonable 100-120kph on the open road. All engine sizes harnessed to power a huge variety of backyard built three wheel contraptions, ranging from taxi's in the Philippines to mobile restaurants in Thailand – all rolling death-traps that have to be approached with great care.
Honda built a huge empire on the back of the millions of four stroke step-thrus they produced in the sixties and still largely dominate the world market though both rival Japanese and Asian companies are snapping at their heels, some with more sophisticated models, others with cheaper designs.
Yamaha's 125cc Spark one such locally produced model that is typical of attempts to usurp Honda's crown, Better finished and styled than the Wave, aided and abetted in its ease of use by an electric start, the little Yamaha carries a heftier ticket price than most step-thrus but as many Thais pay off their motorcycles on finance over two years, the monthly payments are relatively trivial in their increased cost.
One could ponder how the machines and their purchase prices have evolved to match the finances of their market – certainly, in the West an identical model costs three or more times than in Thailand. Here, expect to pay somewhere between 30,000 and 50,000 baht depending on the make and specification.
Proper motorcyclists dismiss such low end bikes as fit only for desperate commuters who know no better but the motorcycle market has never been based on rationality – just look at the huge success of Harley vee-twins and the addiction many have for old British singles and twins – and these little step-thrus have at their centre a single cylinder motor that is understressed and strangely relaxing, even reassuring, to burble along upon.
Definitely not the case with old Honda C50's, and the like, which combined clunky front forks, dodgy brakes and a three speed gearbox with all the potential truculence of a malfunctioning shotgun. Not that the recent Wave shares any of these faults, having evolved to a level where it is more than a match for the likes of the Yamaha, revelling in its manufacturer's obsession with attention to detail.
Fitted with large but relatively narrow wheels, the Yamaha's tyres last for 15-20,000 kilometres and cost next to nothing to replace. The downside, a slightly queasy feel in the wet and a little snaking when crossing white-lines and ill-fitted road joints. A loose feeling once past 110kph could prove unsettling to those unused to such devices. Bear in mind, though, that there are racing series based on various step-thru's so they must have a little hidden potential!
These kind of bikes really shine, as might be expected, in heavy traffic, where they can be snapped through incredibly narrow gaps, sneaked to the front of the traffic queue – after that kind of manoeuvre I always radiate a big smile. Unless it's raining when the car drivers' have their turn to laugh!
Viewed from the Bangkok pavement, the antics of speeding motorcyclists might appear highly dangerous but Thai drivers mostly started out on two wheels and are only too aware of the potential danger – not least to their shiny auto's – and tend to look before they move; leave just enough space to let narrow motorcycles sneak on through. Weirdly, at times Bangkok traffic takes on an almost balletic dance at odds with its apparent surface insanity.
Still, places like Bangkok not for the novice motorcyclist; don't even think about entering Chaos City until controlling a motorcycle becomes second nature because, at times, it's either do or die – if you need to think about how to stop or manoeuvre the bike you will not have the time to avoid potential calamity.
Often, with cars stalled to a halt, other motorcyclists can be the greatest danger, charging criss-cross through the traffic – mirrors life-savers here, although many Thai men still angle them so they can look at themselves whilst they ride along.
The longest journey done on the Yamaha Spark, Bangkok to Pattaya, in about three hours. The most dangerous part on the heavily congested road between Sri-Racha and Pattaya with huge lorries sending debris at shrapnel velocity as we wobbled along the inner-lane. The back tyre blew, the bike slewing all over the place but it held together long enough to come to a stop.
Turned out there was a one inch piece of metal in the tyre, shredding the inner-tube. Lucky it didn't hit my leg – always wear boots, please, those flip-flops offer zero protection in the event of a crash. The puncture aside - repaired for 70 baht at a roadside shop - the Yamaha shrugged off the journey as just another outing, seemingly pleased to be ridden near the outer edge of its moderate performance. My backside didn't agree, though, definitely not designed for hours in the saddle – the pillion perch even worse!
Incidentally, for reasons that escape me, the police always seem highly amused at my appearance on the bike – and even when I've been pulled over for doing something wrong, a polite, apologetic manner and big smile have allowed me to escape without a fine!
Tiresome laws against motorcyclists – supposed to ride within a metre of the left-hand side of the road and have to wear a crash-helmet; sensible the latter but not in somewhere like Thailand where the heat is impossible and a cooling, self produced, breeze a much welcome relief. Perhaps a good compromise, force people under 21 years of age to wear a helmet and let older, more mature and sensible, riders chose.
Not withstanding these limitations, now I am living outside Bangkok, life is pretty much a breeze on the little Yamaha; especially when it does something like 200 kilometres a week for 60 baht in gas (approx 125mpg), and seems to murmur contently on near deserted country road outings; good friends, we two, now!
Kanlaya